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New York's Central Park was modelled on Birkenhead's, and the first cinema outside London was established here.Walking around its run-down backstreets, I found the three houses the family had lived in; the site of Birkenhead Institute, where Owen was a star pupil; and Christ Church, an all-important focal point in those early years.He took a job as a Parish Assistant in Dunsden, a Thames Valley textbook village complete with a well and a green, in 1911.
However, as a newly commissioned officer in June 1916, he'd described the men in his platoon as "hard-handed, hard-headed miners, dogged, loutish, ugly.
And I saw white-bones in the cinder-shard, Bones without number.
Many the muscled bodies charred, And few remember...
It seems, from this moment, as if poetry and religion might be something the young Owen would have to choose between. Otherwise, it seems a calm, Edwardian time of plant identification, of collecting rocks and fossils.
He led classes: I began to realise how much of a teacher and a leader Owen was used to being, even from an early age.
But I soon came to realise just how different the real thing actually was: a bit like Ancre mud, it was cold and messy but impossible to ignore.